best power to weight ratio

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Q: what snowmobile has/had the best power to weight ratio?

A: Well if you are just going pure weight to power ratio then you have to go with the 08 Ski Doo XP 800. I personally don’t like that sled because it feels like the tunnel is going to break when I ride. I think the 08 RMK Dragon 800 is the best sled on the market right now for power and it doesn’t weigh that much more than the Ski Doo.

Q: which mass produced automotive engine has the best horse power to weight ratio?
2.0 to 3.0 liter engine

A: probably a Caterham, Ariel Atom or KTM X-bow. The Ferrari F40 is also a 3 liter.

Q: Power to weight ratio?
Can anyone suggest what length and make of boat would give me the best power to weight ratio for my 90hp Yamaha outboard.
I want to put the motor on the smallest fastest boat for it…ideas??
THANKS…a little more…I’m cashing in the 550 stand up ski for the smallest boat that is 6inches off the water and with my 90hp yammy on the back the thing feels like a Donzi at full tilt…what size make boat am I wanting here?

A: Try this on for size. A Hydrostream Voodoo. If you can find one, and get it rigged with that 90, i want to see some video!

http://toronto.kijiji.ca/c-cars-vehicles-boats-Hydrostream-VOO-DOO-60hp-merc-W0QQAdIdZ85525027

Q: Which fighter in history has the most power for their size?
All weight classes of all time. Which fighter had the best power to weight ratio.

A: OMG…..BOB FITZIMMONS!

Think about it. John L. Sullivan was one of the most feared punchers in history of Prizefighting and he at 212 pounds COULD NOT knock out “Getleman” Jim Corbett…….Bob Fitzsimmons comes along weighing ONLY 167…..and KNOCKS CORBETT OUT with the famous “Solar Plexus” Punch!

Fitzy was a Master Blacksmith who utilized the skills he cultivated in a lifetime of “Swaying the Hammer”…..He THEN apllied those muscle groups into his punches!

IF George Foreman weighed 167 pounds……you MIGHT be able to make the argument that pound for pound, Fitzsimmons actually HIT HARDER because of his painstakingly developed Technique!

BOB FITZSIMMONS in my opinion is The Sweet Science’s All Time “Pound For Pound” Hardest Hitter in relation to his size.

Dollbaby XO

Q: what is the best production engin in the world?
in regards to:
CC to HP ratio?
HP to weight?
best compression ratio?
best hose power overall?
best torque overall?
i want ratios.
take the total HP divided by the CC of the engine and post it.
the higher the better!
the 6cc v12 only has 0.102017003 hp/cc! thats low! lots of wasted potential!

A: The ferrari 5,999cc/612-hp V12, this is the production engine for the 599 gtb fiorano. It is a hand made work of art

Q: how can I??
how can I get the best power to weight ratio in a homemade jet engine,what fuel works the best, and how do i make it more fuel efficient?

A: if power is somewhat governmed by not wanting to blow yourself up, the answer is to reduce weight. but of course not detracting from structural integrity. so depending on the size of what you are launching, use balsam wood or aluminum, or if you are made of money, get some carbon fiber.

Q: Which type of Electric motor is the best?
Now this is not considering cost, what it is considering is mainly efficiency and power to weight ratio. Im guessing it’s either a DC Brushless Outrunner Motor or an AC Induction Motor.
Sorry i guess im going for the most torque available at 0 RPM’s

A: 3 phase motors are the best in terms of efficiency.

Q: Whats the best dirtbike for me?
Im 15 and have been riding for four years. This would be my fourth bike after a honda 80cc, 150cc, and 230cc. I think the power to weight ratio of the 230 isn’t good enough anymore. I want something more powerful and maybe even a 2 stroke. I ride enduro not motocross and Im looking for a new bike. Im 185cm which is around 6 feet and I weight 64kg which is around 140lbs.

A: You could look at any of the known brand 250f’s like the crf250r or even the crf250x as that is more of a trail, enduro bike and may suit your needs. You are right that you would find the 230 a bit of a pig especially being 6ft tall. I really don’t know how your manage to ride it.

Q: Best 4-cyl turbo for under $13k?
I’m a Victorian P-Plater and got my p’s before July 07, so just have to abide by the original power-to-weight ratio. Currently have a V8 AU Ford, so really looking for better fuel economy without having to sacrifice too much power.

A: depends what you want from the car.

if u wanna go sideways an S13 or S14 weith an SR20 in it would be the best. (S13 if you learning to slide) or a turbo Sprinter. you could get a TOP quality one for 13k

if u want loads of grip and great torque an RS liberty (wawgons are better ) again you could get a top notch RS for 13 grand or you could get a high quality gen 2 liberty GT or GTB twin turbo for that amount of money.

all great cars will give you massivbe gains just comes down to what you want the car for.

Q: What do you think about this cover letter, critique please… 10 points for best!?
My letter should probably begin with me emphasizing my extensive military training. That might be my most concrete source of experience. Instead, I want you to get an idea of the type of person I really am so that you can decide for yourself whether or not I am a good candidate for your company.

I’m a techie, but for some reason I’ve been in denial. There’s a certain amount of neediness that is associated with those who find anything high-tech or cutting edge interesting. Problem is; I’m not a nerd, not by websters definition anyway. I’ve always been an athlete, but I would never be mistaken for a jock. I’m currently the coach for the Matador Grappling Team at CSU-Northridge. Grappling is the part of MMA (Mixed Martial Arts) that looks a lot like wrestling. It’s a brutal and competitive sport not meant for the weak. Often times amidst my training my mind will wander… how can I make my remote control airplane faster? I’ve gone as far as fabricating carbon fiber frames and reworking the circuitry to optimize the power to weight ratio. I use my basic electronic knowledge, but it’s mostly self taught. Not one person whom I train has any idea what I’m talking about, as long as I can show them how to choke another person unconscious, then they think I’m cool.

Most people show up to work to do the things they need to do, so that they can do the things they want to. I want to go into work and have a problem that I have to fix with a deadline looming overhead. That’s why I loved the military, and I think that was part of the reason I did so well. The job I chose was a perfect fit for me. I installed and maintained any and all communication equipment, from Sincgars to Tactical satellite systems (TacSat). I was also a Communication Security (comsec) specialist, and custodian for all comsec equipment. I got to put together classes and taught people how to do basic troubleshooting emphasizing the reality of haste needed during emergency situations. I developed mnemonics and made laminated cards for everyone in my company to carry. I’m proud to say that we never had an issue with communication while deployed. The awards I got while deployed are the ones I’m most proud of, because I knew that I’d earned them. I’ve decided to embrace my interest in technology. I’m a social being, and have always thrived in both a leadership position and while being a subordinate. I understand the concept of tact and am aware of the subtle differences between different cultures possessed by my coworkers, but also know when to use candor for the sake of improvement; never pointing out a problem unless I have a potential solution.

I maintain security clearance, and pride myself in being the good person my mother knows me to be. I feel that my life experiences have shaped me into a valuable asset to whomever chooses to have me on their team. I’m positive despite obstacles. When everything is running smoothly, I blend in and work hard, but when things start going south and everyone is on edge – that is when I shine. My aim in this letter was to give you an idea of who I am as a person. I hope that in my attempt to be honest and straightforward I didn’t portray anything less than professional.
I am sure my services would be useful to

A: I would not use the words in denial and needeness and cool. I would avoid trying to sound “fun” like you were writing your myspace profile. But do include your background as you did: team player, team leader, excellent experience.

do not use ….. in a cover letter. Everything you write has to be professional and brisk.

do not write about what others do or how they approach work. only talk about yourself.

Lastly, I would not start or say in a cover letter: if you decide you want me or I might fit. Assume you are the very best candidate for this job and then state your case.

good luck

Q: A bit of motorbike ignorance here concerning 2-stroke engines. Any advice ?
Hi Folks.

I am an old biker, and have ridden many a fine machine, both big and small, but only one was a 2-stroke, A Yamaha “super six”, which was eventually banned from import as the power/weight ratio was just silly.

Then, many moons ago, petrol stations had a cylindrical oil pump arragement, with a knob that quoted 25/1 or 50/1 for one squirt per gallon of petrol.

I presume that 2-strokes now have their own little tank of oil.

Or is this mixture no longer needed ?

Sorry 2-stroke owners, fine off road, and the best thing for the job, but to me, it is a bag of nails in a tin can sound.

Oh, well !

Any notions ?

A: 2 stroke bikes that are street legal will have a separate oil tank – so straight petrol can be used on fill up.
2 stroke off road race bikes don’t usually have a separate oil tank – to cut down on weight.
Racers mix their own petrol/oil using quality race oil and their own tested oil/petrol mixture ratio.
Quads will have an oil tank for convenience.

The petrol station you mention might sell that stuff for owners of 2 stroke garden equipment – string trimmer, lawn mower, chain saw, etc)

Q: 2004 suzuki rm250 flywheel weight/ exhaust/ oil?
i have a 2004 suzuki rm250. i heard that a flywheel weight will make it less likely to foul the spark plug is this true? also i heard it gives them more low end power. im sold at the less spark plug fouling. i hope its true. if so were and what size would be good. im not using for hardcore racing. just for trail riding and pinning it on straits. but im not as much concerned about power. what weight would make it foul spark plugs less. and also were would i get one and how much would it cost. also does it make your bike harder to kickstart because its allready a killer. i cant be spending 200 bucks on this. and what exhaust would be best for it but it cant be to much louder than stock. and what oil will make it last longest, im running maxima k2. and what ratio would be best im running 32:1 now. and good links to how to jet or tune the carb(with diagrams).

A: From what you describe( trail riding etc) I think you may be riding the bike at slower engine speeds than it was designed for.

The first answer here is right on about jetting. I have owned RM250s and typically the pilot( slow speed jet) is one step too rich for near sea level riding( for example if it has a#50, then try a #45). Conversely, I have found the needle, and needle jet to be very close-as is the main jet.

A 250cc two stroke should be revved-keeping it at engine speeds using the needle jet and main jet circuitry. First, when you start the bike next time, warm the engine until you can feel some heat on the head, then slowly ride through 1st and2nd at moderate engine speeds. By now your engine should be warm. Put it un neutral and hold the throttle open to about 3/4 to 7/8-varying, then vary from 7/8 to wide open. I’ll bet it will blow out some smoke and junk-this is “blowing out” your engine.

Then if it still fouls plugs at your riding speed-get one step smaller pilot jet. This affects just off idle to about 1/4 throttle. The Needle and Needle jet affect about 1/4 to 3/4 throttle-the main jet take over at about 3/4 to full throttle. look up Sudco Mikuni carbs-they have some general guides to jetting which are applicable to most concentric carbs. You may also want to gear the bike down, by reducing teeth on the countershaft sprocket or adding teeth on the rear sprocket. If you find that you can’t adjust back to stock gearing after getting used to the bike, make sure the permanent gearing change is the rear. This will help the bike be more responsive off the bottom end.

Once you are jetted tight, and gearing is correct for your riding-then decide if you want a flywheel weight. As for the exhaust, the stock one is fine-typically an fatermarket system will smooth out the power some, though a few years back FMF had some advertised “tourque” pipes.

32:1 is fine on a 250, in fact I believe it is what Suzuki recommends . K2 is a synthetic ol and is fine. I personally run castor in my vintage air cooled two stroke for the ultimate protection, but with your power valved engine I think it would run too dirty.

Be sure to not keep old gas in your bike especially if using pump gas( which is fine for your riding) as today’s pump gas breaks down more quickly, and has a lot of crap in it that will discolor you tank if left in too long. I would use fresh gas mix if it was over a month old personally. Hope this helps.

Q: Which Tank Is Better In Wartime Conditions?
I don’t mean a tank vs tank fight because that never usually happens, but in a wartime scenario.

So, is the Al-Khalid /MBT-2000 vs the t-90s, who would win in a battlefield scenario?

Actually, in my opinion, the T-90 has a better chance than even the Al-Khalid, why? Because the t-90 has so many features.

-EMP for disabling magnetic mines and electronic IED’s!

-Kontakt 5 ERA which can stop most western MBT projectile including the infamous American APFSDS and those pesky top attack man pads and other man portables.

-It can launch anti-amour guided missiles, ATGM’s.

-They can be fielded in far greater numbers.

-They have a light anti- aircraft weapon for strafing helicopters.

-FLIR thermal imaging sights and laser range finders, yeah, the Abrams has them too.

- And the biggest reason why it has a better chance, it has a feature which the Russians are best at, The Shtora and Arena active countermeasures suite. What they do, is basically, they Jam incoming ATGM’s, or kill them literally by shooting a projectile at the missile, it uses a doppler radar on the tank for all this.

- General fact, Indian army personnel have better training.

-More efficient engine, the whole reason the Russian’s discontinued the Diesel-Turbine from the t-80 was because, turbine engines are unreliable.

However, I don’t really think there are any advantages those Pakistanis have to the Russian (mostly)/Indian t-90 s Bhisma.

Because all the Al-Khalid really is is a knock off of the Chinese type 98 which is a horrible knock of of the t-90!

The Al-Khalid has really bad primary composite Armour, and then its reactive amour isn’t even that good.

It doesn’t have counter measures, sure, it has a better power to weight ratio of 27.5/tonne, but thats all i can think of, oh yeah, and it has better suspension, some hydraulic air- ride instead of a plain old torsion.

A: I’d go with the T-90. China is known for making cheap junk, not quality equipment. Take for instance the T-72 from the Russians. The barrel life for the T-72 was only 120 rounds. One couldn’t practice, because a good gunner would probably be shooting 120 rounds in a couple months. Depending on the quoter, the barrel life is said to be 500-1200 rounds. My guess it’s really 50-120 rounds since 1200 rounds would put in league with western barrels. The 1200 round quote for the T-90 of 1,200 is probably high also, but it’s probably higher than the T-72.

Q: Best Rifle, Caliber, Velocity, Etc. for Small Game, Coyote & Bobcat Hunting?
I have hunted with the Bow for many years but I’m brand new to rifle shooting. I know all about arrow and broadhead weight ratios for penetration, but don’t know what the hitting/killing power of various rifle equipment is. I will be joining a club to learn safety and how to shoot but need advice on equipment. I intend to become a good accurate shooter before going after game, but not sure about fixed sights or a scope.

I would like to get a rifle just for Small game and Coyote hunting, and maybe Bobcat. I would like the smallest lightest gun possible as I’m not interested in overkill and getting a cannon as I want to keep the pelts. I just want the best most efficient, accurate, reliable gear for the job. Would like to hear from people who actually hunt game and know what effect different equipment has on various size animals.

I’m not sure about the following and would like some advice on:

1. Gun type?
2. Lever action or semi auto?
3. Caliber?
4. Velocity?
5. Magnum or hollow point or not?
6. Centre fire or rim fire?
7. Fixed sights or a scope?
8. Any other advice?

Thanks in advance for your help!
Lance

A: okay, you talk about the ’smallest and lightest gun’

However, realize that the POWER of a gun comes not from the gun, but from the cartridge…or more specifically the amount and type of GUNPOWDER in the cartridge.

So a weak cartridge in a big heavy gun will still be weak, and a powerful cartridge in a small and light gun will be powerful.

Now, some features like a longer barrel will allow a gun to harness and direct energy a bit more but we are taking a 1% change in performance between a relatively short barrel and a medium barrel, or a medium length vs an extra long barrel

1. Gun Type: Do you mean gun brand? Any name brand would be good.
2. Lever or semiauto: Neither, I would recommend bolt action, or if you are getting a 22LR, then a semiauto.

3. Caliber? For small game I would recommend 22LR, it is the least potent, and most importantly by far the least expensive. It will work great on rabbits, squirrels, and the like. However, for Coyote and Bobcat, you basically have the same range restrictions as you do for bow. I’d not recommend a 22LR to shoot a coyote at much over 20 yards. Still this is a great first purchase.

Another option is the 17 HMR, this is a great small game cartridge and will extend your coyote and bobcat hunting range to about 50 yards or so, and as it is small, low pelt damage.

However, for coyote and bobcat, the best choice I think is the 223. It is small enough that it won’t damage the pelt much, but it is fast enough that you can easily hunt coyote at 300 yards. It is the standard coyote cartridge.

4. Velocity: This is going to be determined by the cartridge you choose.

5. Magnum or Hollowpoint or Not: Question not vaild, shows a misunderstanding of these terms.

6. Centerfire vs Rimfire. Rimfire is older technology, at one time there were a ton of rimfire cartridges, now the only ones that remain are the 22LR and the 22 WMR (22 Long Rifle and 22 Winchester Magnum Rimfire) as well as their two bretheren, the 17 mach 2 (which is a 22LR with the bullet pulled out and a lighter, smaller diameter bullet added in) and the 17 HMR (the 22WMR with the bullet pulled out and a lighter, smaller diameter bullet added in)

Because of this ‘rimfire’ generally means ’small game only class cartridge’ and

Also, centerfire is a newer technology (but still over 100 years old) at one time there were some centerfire cartridges that were big enough only to be used on rabbits and other small game, however these fell along the wayside as the 22LR rimfire stayed so popular. Hence, Centerfire generally refers to cartridges powerful enough to take larger game, the size of coyote, to deer, to elephant. 223 is a centerfire cartridge, actually nearly identical to what the army uses in the M-16,,,but it is about the smallest centerfire cartidge that is common. In many states the 223 is considered too weak for deer. The 223 is used by hunters for long range shooting of coyote, long range prairie dog, and other long range shots at animals that weigh less than 100 lbs

7. Fixed sighs or a scope: If you are getting a 22LR, I would recommend fixed sights, and then add a scope later. If you are going center fire, then that decision is probably because you want the greater range, and in that case a scope will be good. Note, a scope magnifies the target BUT it also magnifies every little wobble you make. Further, when you look through a scope, you are looking at a very small small small section of the world, so it can be tricky to, after spotting your game with the naked eye, to refind it with the scope.

Q: What is a good aerobic/anaerobic ratio for martial arts?
I have read that weight training will give a person more power in martial arts but it will also slow them down. I’ve also heard that it can be bad since weight training doesn’t account for the full range of motion required in MA’s.

What is a good ratio between the two… weight training (the anaerobic) and basic MA practice (aerobic)?

Maybe it would be better to focus on using body weight for muscle training… (ie.. push ups, pull ups, that sort of thing) but you won’t put on muscle like you would with weights.

I guess….. what I’m really asking is… what is the best way to get more power out of your strikes?

A: 70-30.

The majority of your MA conditioning should be aerobic, by way of cardio and running and high-tempo Boxing workouts and such. When you do muscle conditioning, it should be geared more toward endurance than toward building bulk.

I was training two young athletes this past summer. One of them was a cross-country runner and the other was a football guard. Although both of these young men were younger than I and are more recent to competitive sports than I (since I’ve been out of competition for over 15 years now), I was still able to out-run them and out-last them in muscle training. The only reason is that my body is still used to that level of activity.

When I do muscle training, I don’t do much by way of heavy weight training. I might sit and curl a 35 pound DB for 30 minutes, switching back and forth from arm to arm non-stop until I hit pure muscle failure in that motion. That’s how I watch TV about 2 days out of the week.

My preferred method of muscle training uses just body-weight, with push-ups and pull-ups. I can still do 100 non-stop push-ups in 2 minutes, or 50 one-arm PUs on each side. To me, that better prepares me for throwing a barrage of punches at an opponent, much better than pushing some bar up and down.

You see, heavy weight training has to be done slowly to prevent damage to the joints. That develops slow-twitch muscle fibers, which deliver only “pushing” power, instead of the deeper-penetrating “snap” power we need for punching. My push-ups can be done fast, allowing for that explosive snap power.

If you research some of the modern “Combat Conditioning” programs, this is what they are teaching, not weight training. They are teaching you to push yourself until you hit complete exhaustion, an idea I think they may have gotten from the military (although Bruce Lee did record that Indian wrestlers would do their Hindu squats non-stop for 1000 reps).

It is more important that you be able to last the full time of the fight than that you be able to push some weight around. Sounding like my old Boxing coach, I constantly tell my fighters that this art/ game is only 20% talent and 80% “wind”. The more “wind” (endurance) you have, the greater advantage you have over the opponent. Even if he has bigger arms, you can beat him just by getting him to burn his energy and tiring him out. If you can go longer than he can, then you can beat him with relative ease. Therefore, it is best to spend most of your time (up to 80%) with cardio training of some sort. Higher intensity tempos will get you ready for the fight better.

Now, for the big list of references. You’ll like some of the people I refer to on this one.

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