Parts
QA About Everything Autos » Parts » mechanical boost gauge

mechanical boost gauge

Find all the information you need about mechanical boost gauge.Your Number One Source for Automotive Discussion – CarForums.net

Q: my mercury capri xr2 boost gauge reads zero all the time, but turbo seems to be working?
It had recent turbocharger replacement, and there is a whistling which sounds like sirens following me when I drive; Can an air leak cause both problems? Is the gauge mechanical or electronic, and should I hook up an aftermarket mechanical gauge to verify boost or is there a way I can check to see if the stock gauge is working? thanks gang!

A: you probably have a broken vacuum line, check them all closely, not all turbos use a blow-off valve

Q: 88 ford mustang boost gauge???????
how do i hook up a mechanical boost gauge like where do i hook the hose from the gauge to? can some one help me

A: You need to connect the hose to a fitting that has manifold vacuum, such as the power brake hose or PCV. Some vacuum ports are timed or have vacuum above or ahead of the throttle blades. These will only show vacuum when the throttle is open.
I would guess that your boost gauge also shows vacuum-in/hg.

Q: How to properly put boost tube into Autometer boost gauge?
I bought a new Autometer mechanical boost gauge and it came with everything to install but the way that the boost hose goes into the boost gauge seems like the boost gauge could just slide back out and cause a boost leak. I installed it accordingly to the instructions but I noticed that I could just pull out the boost hose from behind the boost gauge and then there would be a leak. How do I make sure that the boost hose won’t slide out when installing it and driving?
Here is the picture of the boost tube/wire with the three brass pieces.

http://forums.stangnet.com/vacboost/2-S.jpg

Even after tightening the brass pieces together, I can still pull out the tube out of the boost gauge. When I was installing the boost gauge into my pod, the see through boost tube slid back out. Am I installing it wrong?

A: There should be a small half-sphere washer (the ferrule) that goes on to the vacuum hose in between the two pieces that screw together. Screw it very tight, and the ferrule should grab on to hose.

The hose doesn’t stay in TIGHT, and it is possible to pull it out. Don’t do it, because it’ll make it harder to get the hose to stay put in the future.

Or what you could do, which is by far much easier, is get some vacuum hose and work it completely over the threaded fitting on the gauge. After that, zip tie it on as tight as possible. The hose that comes with the kit is already very poor to begin with, and it wouldn’t hurt to just replace it all together with some sort of 4mm vacuum hose and fashion a fitting with a nipple.

Hope this helps!

Q: I installing Eaton M90 on Jeep Wrangler?
Somebody said you should thicken the head gasket to lower the compression ration since the car is not designed for high compression, I feel that this is a false. However, the change of cylinder head gasket sounds a good remedy. The O ring I heard in installed in the spark well in the cylinder head. I’m not a skilled mechanic. I only read and apply as appropriate. I also installed a mechanical boost Gauge and it reads around 8 psi of pressure. I guess that this is not that much. You would imagine the power gain I got. it sound as V8 engine, and even more power.

A: somewhere in there, I guess there’s a question, so here’s an answer:

Maybe

Q: How to install autometer gauges?
Ok i get how to hook them up but i don’t know where my pressure ports are on my motor. I got mechanical boost and oil pressure gauges, and they need to be hooked up to pressure ports on my motor. I have a 2002 Pontiac Grand Prix GTP, with a 3800 Series II S/C V6. Hopefully someone can tell me where these pressure ports are or at least point me in the right direction. Thanks!

A: Remove the oil pressure sending unit and install a tube to the new gauge using a flare fitting or a compression nut. You can install a T fitting into the opening and then reinstall the sending unit into one leg of the T and the tube to your new sending unit into the other leg if you want the warning light to continue to operate. There should be a test port on the intake manifold to check boost pressure. Remove the plug and insert a fitting to connect to the tube to your gauge. You will need pressure fittings with a thread to match the sending unit and the plug, and the diameter of your tubing. You can buy them at almost any auto parts store or in the plumbing section of many home centers.

Q: My turbo is not boosting at full power(more like half power)?
I have a 2001 Saab 9-3 SE turbo. The turbo is not boosting high like it normally does. ( / ^ ) If this is the turbo gauge on the speedometer it normally goes up 2/3 the way right before the red. At the moment it only goes 50% of the way and is not blowing off air. What are some checks I can perform to determine where the issue is? Like whether it is mechanical or electrical or how I can pinpoint the problem. Any answers are appreciated. Thanks!

A: Have the connections check out,could be a loose air hose.

Q: i have 1 12 re audio xxx what amp is better ax3100de vs ZX2500.1d?
12 re audio xxx 2,000 watt RMS Rated 12″ competition XXX series sub
72 pound beast!
This is the best sub in our entire store!!! (We have a lot of powerful subs, this is the best one though)
4000w peak output
Dual Composite 2-piece Cone
Rubber Surround
Integrated Gasket
Cast Aluminum Basket
Tork-Tite Terminal
3” 4-layer Aluminum Voice Coil
FEA Optimized Motor Structure
Split Coil Design
VMS Vented Magnet System
Dual Progressive Spiders
Integrated Tinsel Lead
Mounting Depth – 12.75″
Mounting Hole Diameter – 11.5″
Overall Diameter – 13″
Bolt Hole Circle – 12.25″
Motor Width – 10.5″
Motor Depth – 5″
Basket Depth – 7.75″
Displacement – 0.24 cu. ft.
Weight – 92 lbs
Sealed Enclosure: .85- 2.1 (2.1 is recommended)
Ported Enclosure: 1.7- 2.2 (2.2 is recommended)
Electrical Q Value -Qes: 0.46
Mechanical Q Value -Qms: 3.29
Total Speaker Q Value -Qts: 0.404
Free Air Resonance -Fs: 21.00 Hz
Equivalent Compliance -Vas: 74.0 liters
One-Way, Linear Excursion -Xmax: 54 mm
Efficiency -SPL 1W/1m: 83.76 dB SPL
Effective Piston Area -Sd: 480 cm^2
DC Resistance -Re: 4.2 ohm
Nominal Impedance: Dual 2 ohm
Force Factor -Bl: 18.16

us amp ax3100de The most powerful mono amp we ever carried!
Gun-Metal Finish
Class DE Power Supply
Top of the line AX series
3600 Watts RMS @ 1 ohm
2000 watts RMS @ 2 ohms
1200 Watts RMS @ 4 Ohm
500 x 2 watts RMS @ 4 ohms bridged + 700 x 1 @ 1 ohm
90W x 4 RMS @ 2 ohms + 700 x 1 @ 1 ohm
Efficiency: 76% @ 1 ohm / 84 % @ 2 ohm / 86 % @ 4 ohm
Adjustable Butterworth top of the line audiophile grade crossover controls
Low pass crossover adjustable at 40-250 HZ @ 24 dB per octave
Subsonic Filter: 15-40 HZ @ 24 dB per octave
30 dB Bass Boost @ 45 HZ
RCA Low level RCA Inputs
Multi link technology
Block power connector
1/0 gauge power and ground inputs
8 – 18 gauge speaker connectors
Aluminum heatsink
Class DE power supply
Power and Protection LED Indicators
Convention cooling system
Frequency Response: 20HZ – 250 HZ
27 pound beast!
Dimensions: 2.7″ H x 11″ W x 27.5″ L (inches)
vs

kicker ZX2500.1d Class D
Power (watts) Mono 2500 @ 2 Ohms
Remote Bass Control Yes
Length (in.,cm) 27/1/2, 69.7
Height (in.,cm) 2-1/8, 5.4
Depth (in.,cm) 9-5/8, 24.4
Frequency Response 25Hz-200Hz, +0, -1db
Input Sensitivity (High Level) 250mV-10V
Input Sensitivity (Low Level) 125mV-5V
Signal-to-Noise Ratio >95db, a-weighted, re: rated power
Active Crossover 24dB/octave, variable 50Hz-200Hz, low pass only: 24dB/ocative high-pass subsonic filter fixed at 25Hz
KICKEQ Boost Variable to +18dB, centered @ 40Hz
12dB/octave Subsonic Filter defeatable @ 25Hz (ZX300.1 fixed @ 25Hz)
Differential RCA inputs eliminates unwanted system noise

A: definitely the US Amps. Kicker amps have gone down south.

Related Posts

Write a comment